life lately: cruel January

January is the cruelest month. In every place I’ve ever lived, even the South of France, it is bleak. It is the color gray. It is lassitude and chapped hands, seasonal depression and teeth-chattering chill. I wish we could skip it altogether. In France we are currently under a strict 6 pm curfew. This would feel utterly strange if there was anywhere to go, anything … Continue reading life lately: cruel January

the proof is in the profiteroles: on “dieting” in france

Dieting is not an especially French activity. Nor does it feel particularly patriotic to live down the street from a small market and ignore the siren song of its milky white goat cheeses and fresh baguettes. But that’s what I did (or tried to) for a whole month. All in the name of health, I did my best to follow the Whole 30 program, an … Continue reading the proof is in the profiteroles: on “dieting” in france

sweet serendipity in the eagle’s nest of the côte d’azur

My quietly spontaneous trip to Èze would morph into a fun, frenzied journey to three different cities (one of them a country, if we’re being specific). We would be climbing up a hill to a pink mansion, running to catch trains, eating gelato in Monaco, and falling asleep over a late dinner of pizza. I wouldn’t get home until after midnight.

But of course, I didn’t know any of that yet. Continue reading sweet serendipity in the eagle’s nest of the côte d’azur

bon vivant on a budget, or, how to be broke in Cannes

There are (literal) costs to living where everyone wants to be. When I learned I will be paying six times what I paid for rent last year with my modest teaching salary, I glumly reported the news to my parents over FaceTime. “I guess being poor isn’t all bad.” Dad shrugged. “Makes things simple. Less choices.” “Wrong,” I joked. “Plenty of choices. I’m currently deciding … Continue reading bon vivant on a budget, or, how to be broke in Cannes