sweet serendipity in the eagle’s nest of the côte d’azur

My quietly spontaneous trip to Èze would morph into a fun, frenzied journey to three different cities (one of them a country, if we're being specific). We would be climbing up a hill to a pink mansion, running to catch trains, eating gelato in Monaco, and falling asleep over a late dinner of pizza. I wouldn't get home until after midnight. But of course, I didn't know any of that yet.

out of this world: the freaky fun of Carnaval de Nice, 2018

My parents came to visit for 10 days for my winter teaching vacances. For a home base, we picked Nice, as it's close to my home of Cannes but considerably more lively. We were greeted with the perfect illustration of "rain on the parade," as miserable weather threatened to cancel the last few days of the …

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sixteen-mile walk: marseille in a day

It's always a bit wild for me to confront the glaring misbeliefs I have carried around, innocent and ignorant and unsuspecting. Why did nobody tell me? I wonder. How was I getting along in this world? I'm particularly prone to misunderstandings in the areas of pronunciation and geography. I read like a fiend, which means that …

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gypsy jazz

A lazy Saturday afternoon, some gypsy jazz, and flowing champagne. Taylor and I stand in la Chope des Puces, a tiny, ancient jazz club in Saint-Ouen in Paris's 18th arrondissement. We are crammed against the wooden bar, standing-room only. The bar isn't packed but it's tiny, and several families and couples have already claimed the …

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