sweet serendipity in the eagle’s nest of the côte d’azur

My quietly spontaneous trip to Èze would morph into a fun, frenzied journey to three different cities (one of them a country, if we're being specific). We would be climbing up a hill to a pink mansion, running to catch trains, eating gelato in Monaco, and falling asleep over a late dinner of pizza. I wouldn't get home until after midnight. But of course, I didn't know any of that yet.

low-key glamour: monaco in an afternoon

Monaco is home of the eponymous Grand Prix, the belle-époque Monte Carlo casino, scores of luxury yachts, and–let's not forget– actual royalty. Despite the evident glamour, I've always found a visit to the second-smallest country in the world surprisingly low-key. It's the natural beauty that catches my eye: the hardy Mediterranean flowers and cacti clinging …

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sixteen-mile walk: marseille in a day

It's always a bit wild for me to confront the glaring misbeliefs I have carried around, innocent and ignorant and unsuspecting. Why did nobody tell me? I wonder. How was I getting along in this world? I'm particularly prone to misunderstandings in the areas of pronunciation and geography. I read like a fiend, which means that …

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secret garden: serre de la madone

Menton, France has a Secret Garden beauty, rich as it is in dilapidated grandeur.  There are candy pastel hotels tucked in the hills, once wedding cake-grand but now closed with broken windows. The small downtown area houses murals, fountains, and statues that show their age. A striking yellow staircase leads from the Basilique St. Michel down …

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