la gourmandise (what to eat in Toulouse)

In French, the word for “greedy” has richer connotations than its English counterpart. Tu es gourmand probably doesn’t mean: listen, you’re a greedy pig, but rather: you know how to enjoy something. You have joie de vivre. I like this, the concept of eating well, with moderation and with gusto. I like that this can be something to notice and compliment.   france-patisserie

La gourmandise is a good theme for a trip to Toulouse. It’s the perfect destination for the lazy, hungry traveller. There’s no need to pore over restaurant reviews or splurge on an out-of-budget dinner. Just take a walk and scan restaurant windows for the brightly-colored travel guide recommendation stickers (they’re everywhere!).

Toulouse is small and central enough that it’s easy to navigate on foot. It’s a good place to wander, where you’re more likely to stumble upon a charming little salon de thé than the outskirts of a creepy neighborhood.

All these chance encounters had me doing the math: how much could I possibly eat in a day? I didn’t spend much on entertainment: visiting museums, galleries, and cathedrals (all free or inexpensive), so I was able to taste quite a bit of what Toulouse had to offer.

Marché Victor Hugo

a covered market near St Sernin. Good place to buy stuff for a picnic and talk to the vendors about their food. Buy some local cheese and fresh bread!

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Santine

near the river, a perfect place to have dinner. It’s cozy and packed. Classic French food with a twist, like lamb and tagliatelle in a sauce with zucchini and honey. They do brunch too.

Cave au Cassoulet

Cozy restaurant near the river serving the specialties of the region (foie gras, cassoulet). You eat downstairs in a former wine cave. Reservations required. Come with a huge appetite.

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La Brasière

Super classe. We had oysters that tasted just like the sea and I had a salad with chèvre toasts cut in little hearts. And cassoulet, because it’s my new favorite comfort food.

Mami-Wata

You can only go to a French bistro so many times in a row. This African-Carribean place offers something different. I had a bissap cocktail and banana beignets to start, then chicken with coconut milk and tomatoes, followed by house-made mango yogurt. The plats come with sweet potatoes, rice, and bananas. The restaurant, on a nondescript little street, is dark, elegant, and cozy. A great date spot!

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Boli Café 

This Korean café is just adorable, and a great location near le Capitole. Get the bibimbap and a pot of tea. It’s served with a bowl of nori soup and a clementine for dessert. A nice break from heavier stuff.

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Cafe des Artistes

Just a good place to grab a coffee and read. Great ambiance and location, just across from the Garonne.

Flower’s Café

A local favorite, this place is always packed for lunch. It’s hard to get a seat even on the terrace. If you want to avoid the line, go around 10am and get some of the best chocolat chaud of your life. It’s the real stuff, so thick you need to eat it with a spoon. You can get it with banana or fleur d’oranger, among other choices.

Pillon

Crazy-good pastries with multiple locations around Toulouse. Try the little tarts topped with fruit or an éclair in an interesting flavor. Some days they have brioche à la violette (specific to Toulouse!).

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Moloko

A local guy brought me to this cute cocktail bar near a busy restaurant area. I tried the fresh tomato martini: foamy with basil syrup, vodka, and a cherry tomato. Weirdly good. Some dancing does happen here when it gets late. Soundtrack: The Cure.

 

foie gras & pop art in la ville rose

This year I vowed to get better at that whole adventure thing. I’m good at following people around, but I haven’t yet developed the necessary skills myself.

I’ve never picked a place and just gone. Never figured out the dates, times, and hotel fares, the train schedules and directions. That’s why my summer abroad in Lyon a few years ago was a perfect start. We went to Marseille, Cassis, Avignon. I planned nothing beyond how many pairs of shorts I could stuff into a bag.

This year is different: if I don’t plan, I’m not going anywhere. How’s that for motivation?

Mary and I had talked about ideas for the first two-week vacation. One night we sat and looked at maps and google image searched a bunch of French cities…that was weeks ago. When we started teaching, travel planning became lesson planning and then it was the first day of our vacation and we had nothing.

We knew but one thing: we wanted to go south. So as of yesterday, here we are in…Toulouse!

Toulouse is known as the ville rose because many of its buildings are made of pink brick. Promising warmer temps and pretty views, it was good enough for me.

Lonely Planet calls Toulouse “a southern version of Paris only smaller, cheaper and friendlier, with fewer crowds and warmer weather.”

I’ve found that to be true! Today was 73 degrees and pleasantly windy. We walked everywhere easily, no need for the bus or metro. I didn’t notice a single tourist, and even though it’s Sunday, the city was lively from morning to night. img_2886-1

The biggest & best surprise: Toulouse is known for its food: classic southwestern France country food. This means foie gras everywhere. Duck everything. These are two of my very favorite foods so I’m giddy about it. The fact that it was a surprise made it even better. As we looked for a place to eat last night I noticed these items in some form on every menu and decided right then to make this a sort of gastronomic vacation. There are just too many good things to eat.

Tonight we visited the Cave au Cassoulet, a well-known spot where reservations are a must and the menu is foie gras, cassoulet with duck & sausage, and dessert. It was my first cassoulet and my second foie gras (of the trip, that is). The restaurant is underground, an old Toulousain wine cave. Cassoulet is the ultimate comfort food, warm and savory, the white beans velvety in a rich gravy. It was brought to the table in a heavy pot that Mary and I shared and still it seemed we hardly made a dent. I ate as much as I could, though, for I know I’ll soon be craving it on cold winter days in Montluçon.

Last night we ate a perfect meal at La Santine. I had foie gras with fig jam and toasts, then lamb with tagliatelle (this item was translated as “knuckle of lamb” in English…?). Dessert was crème brûlée with jasmine. There’s something dreamy about cracking that golden crust with your spoon. It was so good I nearly skipped home.img_2888-1

Our hotel is lovely, featuring a classic French window overlooking a busy street; sleek design, a bathtub (and most importantly peut-etre, it’s inexpensive). When we left this morning to see the Basilique Saint-Sernin, we were surprised to see what was taking place outside the hotel: the tenth annual marathon. Everyone (maybe except for the panting runners) seemed in high spirits. A French band was playing music. From the sound of it, they knew two songs: “Proud Mary” and Pharrell Williams’ “Happy.” (The ten-minute renditions of these two songs repeated became a bit fatiguant, but they definitely get an A for enthusiasm).img_2884-1

We went to Marché Victor Hugo with the goal of finding a violet brioche. Toulouse is known for this little flower. Violets are used in candy, infused into honey, and apparently baked into pastries as well, but we couldn’t find the brioche anywhere. Mais bon. Instead we bought a rose éclair (!!!) and a tart with wild strawberries the size of my thumbnail.

The covered market Victor Hugo reminded me a lot of Lyon’s Les Halles. It’s something to see just for the experience, though I’d recommend bringing cash and a bag and buying food for a picnic. The vendors are friendly and knowledgeable. Now that I actually enjoy speaking to strangers in French, I like asking questions when it seems someone has the time. I talked to one man about how to cook cow stomach, the sort of dialogue I never practiced in school.

I like looking at the seafood: fresh crabs and lobsters with purple rubber bands on their claws; stacks of coquilles St. Jacques, even prickly sea urchins.

It’s not a place for the faint of heart. In the meat cases you’ll find rabbits, still with all their fur, and slaughtered ducks, their brilliant green heads and floppy feet oddly juxtaposed with their bodies plucked of feathers. You’ll find the hind legs of a lamb, pickled pigs feet, escargot bright green with herbs.

The crèmeries are glorious. I have my eye on some of that Gorgonzola DOP with mascarpone. I have not yet tasted this cheese, only read about it. (You can take the girl out of the cheese department…) It’s happening, like, tomorrow.

Our day was only half about food. We also visited two museums, les Abattoirs for modern art and Fondation Bemberg, displaying the art and antiques of a private collector from the 15th to the 20th century.

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I liked les Abattoirs. I found things that made me grin and that deeply disturbed me. I left inspired, in any case. My favorite piece was a six-minute experimental film, I guess you’d call it. Projected on the length of a room, just a few feet wide, runs a video of an undulating silver mass on a red background. It seems to quiver and ooze, soft yet solid, like mercury or octopus tentacles. There’s a faintly queasy quality to the mass, like a beating heart or the workings of some terrible machine, like something you shouldn’t be seeing. After a few minutes, a black ant scurries across the screen, through the gaps in the silver ooze. It’s cartoonish in style, huge against the wall of the room, but the movement captures exactly that of an insect in nature. Then another, another. Hypnotizing. An awful noise starts, sudden enough to be disquieting, louder than you’d expect. You couldn’t call it music, more like an industrial scraping, jarring and awful. There are more ants, more ants, streaming across the screen for a second before disappearing forever, each marching in its tight little pattern for the second it comes into view. Then the noise stops. The ants stop. The mass continues.

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It’s haunting and sort of terrible and I watched it three times. One thing I like about this sort of art is how it can provoke physical senses besides sight, unlike the picture on the wall. The movement made me dizzy, hypnotized. The sound made me uneasy. It was like looking at a painting, but a painting that was able to communicate. I read that the artist’s goal is to make the viewer contemplate his own mortality. One in a line of ants, finite. The piece is a success, I’d say, for when I read that, it clicked like information I had heard before. Of course.

Fondation Bemberg was cool too, definitely worth a visit. I won’t wax poetic about it but that’s just me, more likely to espouse on animated ants than praised 18th century paintings. Know what you like, man.

As we walked back towards the city center we happened to see a little gallery. Inside, Rolf Saint-Agnès, a Swedish-French artist, was working on a painting. We talked to him for quite a bit about his work. His pieces have French/English puns in the titles and all kinds of satirical hints hiding throughout. He wants to gently criticize but avoid aggression, he said. I thought that was kind of cool. His stuff is bright and misleadingly whimsical, like something in a children’s book, but it’s a bit of a ruse, disguising what’s beneath the surface.

Super modern art, classic French cuisine. I’m ready for more charming anachronisms.